[翻译]使用冰爪和技术冰镐“发展后的”技术[组图]
[翻译]使用和技术“发展后的”技术Using "evolved" techniques for crampons and tools.
使用冰爪和技术冰镐“发展后的”技术
译者： 华仔
译者注：（原文发表于http://www..com/，译者尽可能如实的翻译原文，本文仅供参考。如需转载，请全文转载并注明原出处，以便大家更好的理解本文！这是国外向导教材的第六部分第一节，整个文章我将陆续译出上传，译得不太妥的地方请大家提出来。）
AREA :
Small ice walls offering particular workable forms : icicles, cauliflower, mushroom, air pockets and fragile ice.
DESCRIPTION :
Anchor the tools in these forms being careful not to plant them but rather hook them or wedge them so as not to destroy the ice. The s often only hold when pulled on downwards using traction.
The experience on this terrain helped favor the evolution of the equipment and gave birth to tools with sharply bent shafts, which allows especially when climbing cauliflower ice, to obtain an optimal placement when compared to traditional shafts where the shaft is more of an obstacle in obtaining a good anchor (fig.83).
http://image1.8264.com/portal/photo/200511/20051105-a/20051105101.gif
范围：
有一些特殊的可用形状的小冰壁：冰柱，花椰菜形冰，蘑菇形冰，空袋形和易碎冰。
描述：
在这些形状的冰壁小心的锚定这些技术工具不是为了把他们安放进冰壁，而是为了不损害冰面，最好是钩住和楔入。
冰镐常常只是向下拉的时候起一个牵引的作用。
在这些地形的经验促使了装备的发展和锐利的曲轴工具的产生。在攀登花椰菜形冰的时候，同传统的直柄工具比起来，曲轴的工具更容易得到理想的锚点（图83）。
When climbing icicles, the axe should be placed by taking little short ss coming from the wrist and not the shoulders or the arms in such that a small hole is made in which the blade is then hooked. Generally speaking this type of ice requires small, precise moves rather than a traditional swing.
It is necessary to practice a lot in order to obtain precision and a feeling for the hold of the tools. On very thin ice or on fragile, thin structures, it may be difficult or even impossible to place or hook both tools. In this case it is possible to hook one pick on the head of the other which allows one to use the strength of both arms to obtain a higher tool placement.
在攀登垂直冰柱的时候，曲轴冰镐只需腕的摆动就可以用钩形刃劈出一个小洞锚定而不需要象以前用肩膀和胳膊，一般来说在这种地形比传统的劈冰需要更小和更精准的动作。
为了找到握持冰镐的感受和掌握精确的动作，练习是必要的。在冰壁非常薄或易碎的地形，想钩住双镐几乎不可能，
这样就只好在上方钩住一根冰镐而用双臂牵引向上以期获得一个理想的高点。
Similarly, crampons have evolved as well, allowing them to be used on these types of ice which is quite different from that for which they were traditionally used, for example : kicking straight on with the foot in order for the front points to penetrate.
The job of the guide or alpine climbing instructor is to progressively bring the student to use his feet better and with more precision. The harder grades due to steepness but above all quality of the ice, requires using crampon techniques similar to those used when climbing with rock shoes. The four front points take on a similar importance as it is often necessary to place them rather than kick them. The inside and outside points are also very important when placing ones weight on the feet.
同样的，冰爪和传统的比起来也有很大的不同，得到了发展使他们能够用于这种地形，例如：带前齿的冰爪使垂直冰面踢冰穿透冰壁成为可能。
日益增多的向导和高山攀登教练的任务是让学员们更好更精确的使用好他们的脚，更高的难度级别意味着更加险峻，
但首要的是冰的质量，因为它可能需要类似像鞋一样运用冰爪的技巧，冰爪的四个前齿承担着跟攀岩鞋同样重要的功能，有时候如何放置于好他们比如何踢它们显得更有必要。当整个人的重量都在脚上的时候内外齿都非常的重要。
Lifting the foot onto vague terrain and using the points differently allow one to pull with crampon rather than simply push.
Over time these new possibilities have allowed one to be sure even on fragile difficult structures, they require as do the tools, precision and delieness. On particularly fragile ice, a simple kick of the foot a bit to muscled can lead to the entire structure tumbling down.
The crampon can also be used for counter balance or by hooking with the heel behind icicles or in holes in the ice. When used for counter balance, the foot only pushes against the ice with the side of the crampons; when hooking, a better hook is possible when using heel points (spurs) (fig.84).
http://image1.8264.com/portal/photo/200511/20051105-a/20051105102.gif
把脚提到一个不明情况的脚点和利用不同的齿点使人有时候带着冰爪做牵引动作，而不只是简单的推进。
随着时间的过去，过去一些易碎和困难的地理结构已不是什么难点已成为可能。他们需要更多的精确和流畅用到技术工具，在特别的易碎冰的地方，有时候一个很小的踢冰动作就可能导致整个冰面结构的崩溃。
冰爪有时用来做反平衡或用脚后跟钩在冰柱上，或者放进冰上的小孔内。当用到反平衡的时候，脚只是用冰爪同一侧抵着冰面，当用钩的动作的时候，脚后跟上的点是很好的钩点（刺激）（图84）。
It is also possible to hook using the points under the foot by opening the knee towards the side and pulling the hips into the ice.
Generally speaking, it is by continuous practice that the student is able to improve and adapt to the diverse situations that difficult ice can offers.
The exercise that allows one to obtain a lot of confidence when using crampons, is by climbing (on a top rope) on ice that has many different shapes and forms without using the axes, the hands using only ice holds. Try to count the number of swings one takes with the axes and try to progressively reduce them in order to increase the feeling and the quality of the placement.
有时候钩住脚下的点，利用坐膝的动作把臀部朝冰面牵引过去也是可能的。一般来说，学员不断的训练能使他们提高和造应各种变化的困难地形。不用镐，手只是扶着冰壁，仅用冰爪攀登（顶绳），连续性的这种训练能使人得到更多的信心。设法去数你挥镐的次数，然后逐渐减少它的次数，多多体会你挥镐的感受和选定更好的下镐点。
Progressing using a bc "triangle".
运用基本的“三角平衡”行进
译者： 华仔
译者注：（原文发表于http://www.grivel.com/，译者尽可能如实的翻译原文，本文仅供参考。如需转载，请全文转载并注明原出处，以便大家更好的理解本文！这是国外高山向导教材的第六部分第二节，整个文章我将陆续译出上传，译得不太妥的地方请大家提出来。）
AREA :
Short length of rope approx. 75/80° on top rope.
DESCRIPTION :
From the basic balanced position of the triangle (fig.85),
http://image1.8264.com/portal/photo/200511/20051105-a/20051105103.gif
lower the hips and hang the chest from the highest arm (principal arm), lift the feet using three short steps the first in a plumb line under the highest axe, move up on each leg so that it is straight until one is again in a new triangle position, the face at the height of the head of the axe.
Make these moves fluidly always placing the hips over the weighted foot. Do not interrupt the sequence until one has come back to the basic balanced position (fig.86 to 89).
http://image1.8264.com/portal/photo/200511/20051105-a/20051105104.gif
Only now at this moment, remove the lower tool and place it higher and a bit to the side of the other tool (fig.90).
http://image1.8264.com/portal/photo/200511/20051105-a/20051105105.gif
Take two steps sideways in order to come back to the original position of the basic triangle (fig.91 to 93).
http://image1.8264.com/portal/photo/200511/20051105-a/20051105106.gif
范围：
75/80度的顶绳，短绳距
描述：
从一个稳定的三角平衡点开始（图85），降低臀部重心，用最高点的胳膊把人挂住（受力臂），采用三碎步法抬脚，第一步
一定是在最高的镐的铅垂线上，直接向上抬腿直到新的三角平衡点，朝着镐头的高度。
动胯的动作要一气哈成，不要乱了次序，直到你又回到一个新的平衡（图86-89）
只有在这时刻，你才能把较低的冰镐移动到较高的位置，但不要离另一支冰镐太远距离（图90），向边上走两步为了回到原来的三角平衡点（图91-93）。
ERRORS :
Moving the feet without having correctly centered oneself.
CORRECTION :
If the hips are not moved sufficiently, increase the size of the rocking of the hips by exaggerating the moves.
The first step is not centered or too long, which results in a jerky move and excessive pulling on the axe.
The second tool is placed at the same height as the first.
REASON :
The feet are not high enough. The axe is not placed in a position which allows one to use the full extension of the arm.
CORRECTION :
After the first step which should be short and allows one to start without using too much energy, take bigger second and third steps. The swinging movement from the arm should be done with the arm almost extended.
The axe is placed by hyper extending which doesnt allow one to verify the placement. This position does not allow one to remove the axe, the body is stuck against the wall and already pulling on the tool.
The tools are placed too far apart (fig.94) or in the same vertical axis (fig.95).
http://image1.8264.com/portal/photo/200511/20051105-a/20051105107.gif
http://image1.8264.com/portal/photo/200511/20051105-a/20051105108.gif
错误：
.移动脚的时候没有使自已的重心在三角范围内。
纠正：
如果臀部动的不够充分，可以把摆胯的动作做的夸张一点。
.第一是移步没有居中或者做的过了头,结果会是一个急动和过份的拉镐。
.第二是后来的劈镐的高度和原来的是一样的。
思考：
双脚的高度不够，镐不能劈到在胳膊充分伸展的情况下能够到达的位置。
改正：
第一步不能发力，要小一点，第二步和第三步可以大点。这样劈镐的动作可以做的很舒展。
.如果镐劈的太过(胳膊伸的太长)那么你不能去检验你的位置对不对,在这个点上你又不能移动镐,这时候你就被定在壁上了,只能够继续拉着镐.
.镐点下的太远(图94)和两个镐在同一垂直线上(图95)
In each case progressing will be perturbed both in smoothness and balance.
For other general errors see the errors of exercise # 1 - level 5
Favole note for progression using the basic triangle :
At first insight this technique can seem more difficult to use, and above all more tiring physically (pulling on only one tool instead of two). However it should be considered that the main reason for fatigue comes mainly from the number of placements and from removing the tools. With the triangle technique the number of swings is cut in half. Additionally, from a safety point of view, having the tools placed at different heights doesnt have the same pullout effect on the ice, thus avoiding the danger of having ice plates break off, which in certain cases can sheer off and cause the climber to fall.
每一种情况都会使你的动作的流畅和平衡大打折扣.
其它的一般性错误参见练习错误# 1 - level 5
运用基本的三角平衡来行进要提倡:
刚开始这个技术看起来运用很难,主要是太容易使人累了(因为是拉着一支镐而不是原来的两支).
不管怎样,移动和下镐点的数量使人疲劳的主要原因要关注.
运用三角技术挥镐的数量可以减掉一半,另外,把镐从一个可见的安全点同时放到不是同一高度且冰面承受着不同的拉力,可以避免冰面跨掉的危险,而这个危险可能导致你的偏向而引起滑坠.
"Evolved" progression using the triangle.
运用发展了的三角平衡行进
译者： 华仔
译者注：（原文发表于http://www.grivel.com/，译者尽可能如实的翻译原文，本文仅供参考。如需转载，请全文转载并注明原出处，以便大家更好的理解本文！这是国外高山向导教材的第六部分第三节，整个文章我将陆续译出上传，译得不太妥的地方请大家提出来。）
AREA :
Short length of rope approx. 75/80° on top rope.
DESCRIPTION :
Start from the position of the triangle with he axe placed at face height. From this position, place the other axe higher and to the side in regards to the first one. Lift up the feet by taking steps (the first foot moved should be the one opposite the side of the highest tool), returning thereafter to the starting position (fig.96 to 101).
http://image1.8264.com/portal/photo/200511/20051105-a/20051105109.gif
Using this type of progression one does not return to the basic balanced position, (in a triangle) arm extended.
As seen before in the proceeding exercises, moving the lower limbs should be proceeded by displacing the hips, and followed with as much smoothness as possible. Using this method, even very steep pitches can be climbed quickly and without excessive fatigue. The traditional method (axes at the same height) requires a greater number of swings and a greater physical demand.
VARIATION :
When it is difficult to position ones feet in a triangle, it is interesting to use the corresponding foot and principal hand (higher) only for balance. In this case the final position is not actually the out of balance triangle so to speak, because the effective weight supporting parts are numbered of two : the highest arm and the opposite leg, the other leg is used only for balance.
The center of gravity is obtained by the weight supporting foot (placed crampon) and balance is obtained by the axis between the arm, hips and leg (fig.102 to 106).
http://image1.8264.com/portal/photo/200511/20051105-a/20051105110.gif
范围：
75/80度的顶绳，短绳距
描述：
一个三角平衡点的镐有一个工作面范围，从这个点开始，在边上比第一根镐稍高的点劈另一根镐，设法提高脚点（第一只脚的移动要是最高的那根镐的相对方向），然后再回到一个开始点（图96-101）
和前面的行进练习一样，下肢的移动也是靠臀部的移动来进行，过程一样尽量要流畅。运用这种方法，步距连贯且大，攀爬迅速且不会过劳。传统的方法（镐在同一高度）需要更多的劈冰次数和体力。
变化：
当在一个三角平衡中很难放置脚点的时候，用相应的脚和挂住身体的那个胳膊来维持平衡是非常有趣的。因为这样子说来最后的点实际上不是三角平衡的，因为有效的重量被两个点分担。最高的手点和支撑的那条腿，另一条腿实际上只是起平衡作用。
重心是靠（带冰爪）的脚来获取，平衡是靠胳膊，臀部和腿来获得（图102-106）
Descending using the "triangle".
4。递减使用三角平衡。
译者： 华仔
译者注：（原文发表于http://www.grivel.com/，译者尽可能如实的翻译原文，本文仅供参考。如需转载，请全文转载并注明原出处，以便大家更好的理解本文！这是国外高山向导教材的第六部分第4节，整个文章我将陆续译出上传，译得不太妥的地方请大家提出来。）
AREA :
Small ice wall three or four meters high approx. 70/75°.
DESCRIPTION :
From the basic position place the tool that is not used for balance, at shoulder height. Take two horizontal steps and position oneself in a triangle and lock off on the tool that was just placed. Remove the higher tool and replace it at the same height as the other tool but not as deep since it is only used for balance (an intermediate placement) when descending the feet. Take three steps down in order to return to the starting balanced position of the triangle. Repeat the sequence by placing the tool that was placed as an intermediate anchor.
ERROR :
When the tools are at the same height adopting a basic position (balanced on four points of support) without respecting the characteristics of the triangle position.
范围：
约三到四米高的小冰壁，70/75度
描述：
从一个齐肩高的，不是很习惯的一个基本点开始锚定冰镐。采用两步横移，用三角关系稳定好自已，锁定刚放置好的冰镐。
移动较高的冰镐把它放在跟另一根冰镐同样高但不要太深，因此，当脚点距离缩短的同时，它只是用来平衡（一个中间的位置）。向下三步为了回到开始的三角平衡点。重复挥镐劈冰，把已安放好的冰镐作为一个中间锚点。
错误：
在基本点的时候两只冰镐一样高（四点平衡）而没有注意典型的三点平衡。
译者注：这节我不是很理解，请大家看一看，是不是哪里译得有问题。特别是红色部分
文章作者：华仔 授权 资料网 文章最初发表于
页:
[1]