Beating the Fear of Falling
原文来自： 作者：EricJ.Horst 编译：Liufeng51在先锋的初期，很有可能使你在一个难点处犹豫，是放弃还是继续向上，在冲向最难点而坠落（也有可能突破难点而成功）。毫无疑问，期望完攀线路而避免冲坠的本能反应对你来说是精神上的巨大挑战，这种高度焦虑不安的心情将阻止或破坏你平稳而自信的攀爬。然而，这却是所有即将成为先锋攀岩者必须克服的问题。通过特定训练，你将克服冲坠的恐惧而使水平更上一层楼。事实上，自我克服冲坠恐惧的方法也有助于你在生活的其它挑战领域发挥作用。
要习惯于冲坠，必须与真实的冲坠体验直接对话，在你的本能恐惧中必须强制自己冲坠（假设自己在安全的运动线路或者岩馆里），这种冲坠练习只要使你冲向先锋攀的困难极限即可。许多初学者认为这是难以忍受的，他们在困难的攀登面前太紧张，因为一直向上的艰难攀爬，不清楚要冲坠或冲坠后的情形是很可怕的事。有趣的是，一旦他们冲坠过，平安无事的先锋冲坠体验将消除其危险幻想，大多数的恐惧因此消失。
如果你不能使自己试着冲坠，则需要进行有目的的脱落来战胜恐惧。通常可以选择室内攀岩馆或者有良好保护的野外垂直运动线路进行冲坠，悬岩的线路是理想的场所。攀爬三至四个膨胀螺钉高，确定你的保护系统没有问题，最后一个膨胀螺钉离你的安全带一至两英尺，然后开始你的第一次冲坠。当绳索制动以后，你向外翻出的身体仅冲坠了一小段距离，分析保护系统是如何工作的。然后，爬得比刚才更高些尝试另一次有目的的冲坠，重复这个过程多次，直至使最后一颗膨胀螺钉高出你的脚底。
开始冲坠训练的时候感觉像是吃苦药，几星期之后，你将有意识或潜意识适应冲坠的感觉，此时便可以继续On-sight线路或红点攀爬了。你对冲坠的恐惧将减小，可以专注于尝试攀爬目标了。做到这点，将带给你全新的突破。
（第一次翻译，谬误之处，敬请指正！谢谢！）
Mike Free man and Russ Cluneon Love Life（12b）
http://image1.8264.com/portal/photo/200610/116218476483rtG8.jpg
Liufeng51关于先锋冲坠练习的一些经验补充
1）找一个熟练的你信任的先锋保护者，可以缓解练习脱落时的恐惧；
2）先锋之前要练习挂快挂的方法，不管哪种开口方向的快挂，左右手均需熟练，每个动作至少练习50次，同时学习解快挂的方法（扣反了快挂要解开，初学者很容易将快挂扣反）；
3）先锋冲坠最好先在人工岩壁上训练，超过90度的仰角或大小屋檐是最好的练习场所，可以减少意外受伤的可能；
4）冲坠训练时最好爬得高些，翻出仰角或屋檐是比较好的选择，一般下面至少五六把快挂（十米以上），给绳子预留足够的缓冲长度，相对来说会更安全些，经过长距离的冲坠后，应该换绳的另一头练习，并让绳子“休息”一段时间；
5）冲坠练习时不要抓绳子，如果害怕，可以先从短距离开始练习，逐步加大冲坠距离，至不感觉害怕为止；
6）冲坠时要放松，双手自然伸展，也可以护在胸前，但不要用力推岩壁，以免脱离岩壁过远，撞向岩壁受伤（可以用脚蹬岩壁）；
7）先锋攀爬时注意你的脚和绳子，不要让绳子缠绕住了你的脚后跟，以免发生倒挂冲坠。
附原文：
Beating the Fear of Falling
Early ventures at lead climbing will likely have you in the midst of a crux pondering whether to retreat from the difficulties or push yourself to the point of falling (or possibly a sess without falling!). No doubt, there will be many mental battles waged as your desire to do a route conflicts with a primal instinct to avoid falling. The result will be a high level of anxiety that feeds back and disrupts your ability to climb smoothly and confidently. Recognize, however, that this is a battle that all would-be lead climbers must persevere through. Given a committed, disciplined effort, you will ually conquer the fear of falling and reveal a whole new level of ability. Whats more, winning over fear is a process of self-development that will enhance your capabilities in other chging areas of your life.
To become accustom to falling, however, is a state that only results from real-life experience at taking lead falls. Therefore, you must force yourself to fall (assuming its a safe sport route or gym climb) in spite of what your instincts dictate. Such "practice at falling" is something that might occur simply by pushing yourself to the limit on a difficult lead climb. Many novice leaders find this to be an impossible task, because its just too scary to push upward on a hard climb not kno if they will fall or what the fall will be like. Interestingly, most of the fear evaporates once they do fall--experiencing the uneventfulness of the average lead fall dispels the illusion of danger.
If you cant bring yourself to fall trying, you will need to stage some intentional falls in order to beat the fear. An indoor climbing gym or a steep well-protected sport route provide the ideal platform for practice falls. Select a slightly overhanging route void of high-profile holds, and climb up to the third or fourth bolt. Confirm that your belayer is ready, and then take your first fall with the last bolt you clipped just a foot or two below your harness. In this case, letting go will turn out to be rather anticlimactic as you drop only a few feet before the rope arrests the fall. Upon taking the fall, analyze how well the belay system worked. (It is trustworthy after all!) Now, climb back up a foot or two higher than before and take another intentional fall. Repeat this process one or two more times, with the goal of taking your final practice fall with the bolt at or just below your feet.
At first, performing this falling drill will feel much like taking bitter medicine. After a few weeks, however, your conscious and subconscious will acclimate to the feeling of falling. Then, as you begin to pursue on-sight and redpoint ascents, youll notice a decreng fear of falling and a new instinctual desire to risk and embrace falling in the attempt of a worthy goal. Recognize this new disposition as a major breakthrough, and pat yourself on the back!
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