钱塘在线 发表于 2019-4-13 22:10:31

学习课堂:sanfo记忆

踏足点的踩法
Front-Pointing and Edging:Where one uses the edge of the climbing shoe to stand on small footholds。 It has inside edging, outside edging, and fronting pointing。
正踩侧踩:在小的踏足点上有三种踩法→内侧、外侧、正踩。
注:踩的面积大不一定好(可能变成磨擦点),要寻找较平好用力之处;所以鞋子不能太大,否则无法在小地方用力。
http://image1.8264.com/portal/upload/Image/2007/200706/20070613/20070613132407GCDv.jpg

Smearing:Foot technique where a big part of the climbing shoe is used to pressed against a rock surface (小突点) to generate as much friction as possible。 This is a technique to stand on rounded holds。
磨擦点:不是踩在小突点上而是鞋底的一大部份压在岩面上尽量产生磨擦力,在圆滑的点上须用到。
注:这种技巧比上一个还难得多,而且要有信心才能在脚上多用力让手省点力,其实愈用力磨擦力愈大愈稳。
http://image1.8264.com/portal/upload/Image/2007/200706/20070613/20070613132450eSij.jpg
Hooking
用脚后跟钩住
http://image1.8264.com/portal/upload/Image/2007/200706/20070613/20070613132523Ufqv.jpg
用脚趾钩住
http://image1.8264.com/portal/upload/Image/2007/200706/20070613/20070613132556JOeo.jpg
把手点的抓法
Crimp Grip / Open Hand Grip / Wrap Grip / 捏(Pinch Grip)
注:Open hand grip 较不伤手指,且对难的点比较好抓,尽量习惯这种抓法。
分别为 open-hand grip on a shelf、sloper、pocket
http://image1.8264.com/portal/upload/Image/2007/200706/20070613/20070613132647dcZ0.jpg
由左至右为 crimp grip、open-handed grip、wrap grip、the pinch grip
http://image1.8264.com/portal/upload/Image/2007/200706/20070613/200706131327317pbE.jpg
侧拉(Side Pull)
↓Opposing sidepull
http://image1.8264.com/portal/upload/Image/2007/200706/20070613/20070613132927xyCO.jpg
倒拉(Undercling)
↓左为侧拉,右为倒拉
http://image1.8264.com/portal/upload/Image/2007/200706/20070613/200706131335481eNq.jpg
横拉Gaston
↓用左右反向力来撑住身体
http://image1.8264.com/portal/upload/Image/2007/200706/20070613/20070613133644IEoW.jpg
注:这个动作比较费力,没需要当然不作。
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