攀岩技术分享 运动幽灵步的神奇力量[图文]
Nothing is more frustrating than falling because your foot slipped. It’s not frustrating because you passed the crux, were still fresh, or had just one move to finish your project. No, it’s frustrating because it’s prable..没有什么是比脚下一滑跌落岩壁更让人沮丧的了。悲剧不在于说你已经过了最难的那一段，还意犹未尽，也不是因为就差一步就能完成这条线路了。悲剧的原因在于它本可免于发生。
I started climbing in 1998 and, before long, climbed five days a week. My first coach was Andrew Wallach, a local strongman and the head routesetter at Vertex Climbing Center, in Santa Rosa, California. Whether Wallach’s Silent Feet drill was simply a new way to torture “Team Vertex” is debatable. What’s not, however, were the results. As a young competition climber, I learned to pare away slop and inefficiency.
我从1998年开始，自那不久，便每周都要爬五次了。AndrewWallach是我的第一位教练，它是我们那的强人，也是加利福尼亚，圣罗莎,Vertex攀岩中心的首席定线员。有关于他的幽灵步训练法是否只是为了折磨“Vertex之队”的一个新花样众说纷纭。然而，大家公认的，是这种训练方法的效果。当我还是一个年轻的竞技攀手的时候我就学会了精炼有效的攀爬。
Wallach’s exercise was simple: if your foot squeaked or smedged audibly when you placed it, punishment ensued — for me, this was a 200-foot gym traverse. Choose your own torture, but the key is to have someone nearby call you out. (Thanks to hollow indoor-climbing surfaces, making this call should be easy. And if you’re climbing outside and clomping like Lord of the Dance, this drill is for you.)
Wallach的训练方式很简单：如果你在上脚的过程中发出任何响动，就得接受惩罚-在我身上，就意味着把200英尺长的岩馆整个横移一遍。你也可以由其他的惩罚方式，关键是得有人在边上监督你受罚。（好在室内岩壁是中空的，判断是否犯规很容易。在野外攀登的时候听辨起来虽会困难一些，但是你如果像个舞帝那样踏的咚咚作响就乖乖认罚吧。）
As your main points of weighted contact, your feet matter. Placing them silently forces you to be deliberate and aware with your choice, placement, and movement onto and off each foothold. Here’s how:
作为你的主要着力点，脚部非常重要。上脚的时候不发出声音会强制你在接触或离开每一个脚点的时候都考虑周全，并对自己的动作和移动有充分的意识。下面就说说方法：
Shoe Design
First, let this key principle marinate: climbing shoes are designed to focus power into your big toe, making it the main fulcrum around which your body rotates. The strongest part of your forefoot, your big toe sticks out the farthest (usually), forcing the other piggies to follow its lead: whether smearing, edging, or bearing down on an overhang, it’s the action point for translating tension through your core. Thus, if you don’t stand (and rotate) over your big toe, your shoe will either pivot you off like a ddel spun on its side or force you to reset your foot, increng fatigue while you dither.
鞋子的设计
首先，要深刻理解这条关键原则：所有的攀岩鞋的设计都是为了把力量集中到你的大脚趾上去，使他成为身体旋转的主要支点。作为你脚部最强壮的一部分，大脚趾比其他脚趾都长（通常），其他脚趾都得听他的指挥：无论你是用脚掌，脚侧面，还是在屋檐上对抗下坠力，大脚趾是传递张紧力的核心动点。所以，如果你没有用大脚趾站立（或者不能以其为中心转动脚），那么就会导致你的身体像陀螺那样倾倒或者强迫你重新再踩点，便会加重疲劳以及颤抖。
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The Only Foot Placements You’ll Ever Need
各种脚法一本全
1.Frontstep
This is the simplest, most stable position. Point your foot into the wall and place your big toe directly on the hold (left foot in photo below), resulting in a squared-off stance. You can also use a frontstep in conjunction with a backstep to increase stability, also pictured below.Silent Feet Frontstep Method: First, straighten your arms, hanging in a rest position on your skeleton to survey your foothold options. The key to Silent Feet is slowly and simultaneously to contact the wall’s vertical plane and the foothold’s horizontal aspect — so visually track the movement. Imagine the rock has wet paint on it — will your foot leave lines or dots? You want to leave the smallest imprint possible: a microdot.
1.Frontstep(正脚)
这是最简单，最稳固的一种。你需要把脚尖冲着岩壁并用大脚趾去接触脚点（如图左脚所示），这样就能自然形成一种蓄势待发的姿势。同时你还可以将正脚和backstep（外脚）结合使用从而获得更佳的稳定性，同样如图所示。
幽灵步之正脚步法：首先，将手臂伸直，使你的整个身体悬挂在一个休息位上以便体会踩点的方式。幽灵步的关键是要缓慢且自然的接触岩壁的垂直面以及脚点的水平面-所以需要用目光来注视着脚的移动。好比想象岩石上有未干的油漆-你的脚踩过应该留下的是一条线还是一个点呢？你应该尽可能让留下的印迹越小越好：微微一点。
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2.Instep
The instep uses your shoe’s inside edge, still standing directly on your big toe. The resulting position — if instepping with both feet — is the “frogleg”; it’s crucial to highstepping, as with this slab move on the Bishop highball Footprints (right).
?Silent Feet Instep Method: Lean out from the wall and spot your foothold. The key is to weight your attached foot, giving you the freedom slowly and precisely to place the hovering foot. Externally rotate your hip, allo you to use your big toe’s inside edge. As you make contact, relax your foot, allowing it to absorb weight. Noisy, sloppy footwork stems in part from a rigid ankle joint..
2.Instep(内脚)
内脚步所使用的是鞋子内侧的边缘，同样要用大脚趾站立。获得的站立姿势-如果两脚同时采用内脚-就是所谓的“青蛙腿”了；这种脚步十分有利于踩高点，正如图中所示在BishophighballFootprints（注：位于加州Bishop的一条名为”足迹”的线路，难度为V9或E6）
幽灵步之内脚步法：身体探开岩壁以观察脚点。关键是要把重量承担在被动脚上，从而使悬空的脚能有足够的自由缓慢且准确的进行移动。臀部向内收，就能自然的使用到大脚趾的内侧边缘了。接触到岩面后，将脚部放松，以便吸收重量。粗糙的步法，往往是由于僵硬的踝关节而导致的。
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3.Backstep
Learning to backstep (drop-knee) is quite possibly the most important technique for overhanging rock. Like a row of dominoes, it creates a “wave of extension” that lengthens your body: the pivoting of your toe into a backstep drops your knee, which in turn elevates your hips, driving movement upward. The backstep, or outside edge of the shoe, is also often used when stepping through. This move on Bishop’s Secrets of the Beehive (right) requires a classic backstep.Silent Feet Backstep Method: Set up as if initiating a frontstep or instep: arms straight, weight primarily on your attached leg. This time, internally rotate your hip, exposing your shoe’s outside edge to the hold. As your foot makes slow, deliberate contact, point your toe down, raising your ankle and driving the movement upward from the power point of your big toe.
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3.Backstep(外脚)
学习使用外脚（坠膝动作）可以说是攀爬外悬岩壁最重要的技巧了。就好象多米诺的效应一样，它产生一股“伸展的律动”让你的身体延展的更长：将脚尖旋转至外侧的动作会使你的膝盖下探，随即也抬高了臀部，有利于上升。这种步法也常用于过渡。如右图所示通过Bishop’sSecrets这个蜂窝状的地带就是外脚步的经典运用。
幽灵步之外脚步：采用类似正脚或内脚的起始动作：直臂，重量在从动腿上。这时候，向内转动臀部，将鞋的外沿和脚点接触。当你的脚缓慢踩踏稳固以后，将脚尖冲下，抬起脚踝,利用源于脚尖的力量驱动身体向上。
Kevin Jorgeson still uses Silent Feet, ensuring precision footwork when it counts . . . like 40 feet off the ground on the FA of Ambrosia (5.14 X).
Funny Games
有趣的练习
Learning to use and place your big toe effectively and precisely is the goal. Here, three Silent Feet drills to hone your skills:
学会有效精确的运用大脚趾踩点是我们的目标。下面有3项磨炼幽灵步的练习方法：
Team up. If your feet make a sound, you must repeat the boulder problem or route. Don’t move on (or letyour buddy move on) until you feel you’ve climbed as cleanly as possible. Never settle for slop. Extend astrip of eleical or painter’s tape laterally across the bottom of your shoe, from just under your big toe tothe pinky toe. If you step anywhere other than your big toe, you’ll quickly feel a difference in friction andhave to make the necessary adjuent. Do different moves — such as reversible drop-knees during atraverse — off the same set/s of footholds. This will test your foot placements as you pivot between bodypositions. If you’re using your big toes correctly, you should have no problem keeping your feet on.
1、分成队，如果你的脚发出了声音就要将线路重爬一遍。直到你感觉能爬的非常清晰之前不能停下来或者换人。坚决不能偷懒。
2、撕一截电工或者油漆工用的胶布，将它横向粘在鞋底，卡在从大脚趾到小脚趾刚好低于大脚趾的位置。这样一旦用除大脚趾以外的任何部位踩点，你都会迅速感觉到摩擦力的不同然后要做出调整。
3、变换步法-例如在横移的过程中在相同的一些脚点上反转坠膝动作。这样就能在你切换各种身体位置的同时检验你的脚步。如果大脚趾的使用得当，你应该能很顺利的保持不失足。
责任编辑：玄天
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